Traditional regional dishes of Ukraine. Part 3: Zakarpattia

Our culinary journey through Ukraine continues. This time, we visit Zakarpattia, on the southwestern slopes of the Carpathian Mountains in the Tysa River basin. The region's location near the borders with Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and Romania, together with its long history under the Kingdom of Hungary and later as part of Austria-Hungary, has shaped its distinctive food culture. Drawing on the cultural heritage of the Kyivan State, local cooking combines traditions of livestock farming in the mountains, agriculture in the valleys and Central European cuisine. Winemaking and cheesemaking flourished here, while fragrant ground red paprika, garlic and ingredients gathered from the forests became important parts of the local cuisine.

Zakarpattian borshch is typically thick, with beans and a variety of smoked meats. Unlike the more familiar tomato-rich versions, it uses a special thickening mixture called pidbyvka, with plenty of ground dried red paprika mixed into it. The paprika gives the soup its distinctive colour and rich aroma.

Varenyky are known locally as pyrohy. They are filled with potatoes, brynza cheese or buckwheat and served with thick sour cream and crispy pork cracklings. A similar sweet dish is hombovtsi: tender dumplings made from curd cheese or potato dough, filled with plums or apricots and coated in toasted breadcrumbs and icing sugar.

Meat-filled holubtsi (cabbage rolls) are usually made large, but a distinctive feature of Zakarpattian cooking is its smaller holubtsi, wrapped in fermented cabbage leaves or young grape leaves. They are filled with minced meat and corn grits, then simmered slowly in a special cream sauce without tomatoes.

A traditional drink is uzvar, made from dried apples, pears and plums. Cinnamon, cloves and linden blossom can be added if desired. In summer, people also make drinks from Carpathian berries, as well as herbal infusions with thyme, mint and other aromatic plants.

Fanky are a well-known treat served on festive occasions in Zakarpattia. Their name comes from the Hungarian word fánk, which has German roots and refers to doughnuts fried in oil. Made from soft dough, fanky are served with thick lekvar — plum preserves slowly cooked down without added sugar.

Traditional Zakarpattian fanky recipe

Dough: 500 g wheat flour (medium protein content), 250 ml warm milk, 6–7 g dry yeast, 3 egg yolks, 50 g butter, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt.

Filling: 150 g plum lekvar (or thick jam).

For frying and serving: oil for frying, icing sugar.

Method: Mix the yeast, warm milk and a little of the sugar, then leave in a warm place for 15–20 minutes. In a separate bowl, combine the egg yolks, softened butter, salt and remaining sugar, then stir in the risen yeast mixture. Add the flour, knead the dough and leave it to rise in a warm place for one hour. Shape the dough into balls weighing 40–45 g each and let them rise for another 15–20 minutes. Fry in oil heated to approximately 170–180°C until golden brown. Once the fanky have cooled slightly, use a pastry syringe to fill them with plum lekvar, then dust with icing sugar.

Smachnoho — enjoy your meal!