Traditional regional dishes of Ukraine. Part 5: Slobozhanshchyna

Our culinary journey takes us to northeastern Ukraine, to Slobozhanshchyna, a region encompassing Kharkiv and Sumy oblasts and the northern parts of Luhansk and Donetsk oblasts. Its position along Ukraine's northeastern border, together with settlement by Ukrainian migrants, including Cossacks, mainly in the mid-to-late 17th century, helped shape the region's distinct culinary traditions. The Cossacks belonged to a military estate whose members combined service with farming and household work (their military role can be compared in some respects with that of Japanese samurai, although the two groups differed considerably in social organisation and traditions). The region carries the heritage of the Kyivan State and Cossack traditions, while its farming culture also drew on the natural resources of northern forests. Meat, river fish, forest berries, beans and various grains all became important ingredients in local cooking.

Slobozhanshchyna has a range of distinctive approaches to borshch, combining meat or vegetable broth with additional flavours. In modern home cooking, small meatballs are often added, or the soup is served with crucian carp fried until crisp. Soft-cooked beans and fresh or roasted beets are considered essential in the version described here. As well as tomatoes, cooks may use beet kvass, apple cider vinegar or whey to give the soup a tangy flavour.

Varenyky in this region are generally medium-sized and filled with a variety of local ingredients. Alongside familiar fillings such as potatoes with onions and lightly salted homemade curd cheese, cooks make varenyky with cooked, mashed beans seasoned with fried pork fat. In summer and autumn, seasonal berries such as blueberries, raspberries and blackberries are also used.

Meat-filled holubtsi (cabbage rolls) are made small and juicy, with the filling wrapped in tender leaves of fresh or fermented cabbage. Minced meat is combined with buckwheat groats or millet, and the rolls are simmered in a thick sour cream sauce with fried onions and carrots.

A traditional drink is uzvar, prepared from dried wild apples, pears and cherries and sweetened with honey. Compotes made with wild and garden berries are also popular, as is kysil — a thick berry-based drink or dessert made with a starch-thickened fruit infusion.

Traditional Christmas biscuits, known locally by names such as panianky, konyky and baryny, are part of Slobozhanshchyna's living cultural heritage. The tradition of baking and giving these festive treats has been added to Ukraine's National List of Elements of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The biscuits are shaped like people, horses, birds or stars, often coloured pink and decorated with traditional painted patterns. At Christmas they are given to children, godchildren, carollers and participants in the New Year singing tradition.

Traditional Slobozhanshchyna panianky recipe

Dough: 350 g wheat flour (medium protein content), 200 g sugar, 150 ml warm water, 5 g baking powder, 5 g vanilla sugar, a little oil for greasing your hands, 40 ml beetroot juice or pink or red food colouring.

For the painted decoration: 15 g starch, 15 g wheat flour, 20 ml water.

Method: Mix the flour, baking powder and vanilla sugar. In a separate bowl, dissolve the sugar in the warm water, then pour the syrup into the flour mixture. Knead into a smooth dough, lightly oiling your hands if needed, and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Roll out to about 4–5 mm thick and cut into shapes of people, horses, birds or stars. Place on a parchment-lined baking tray. Brush with beetroot juice or food colouring diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for approximately 15–20 minutes. Mix the starch, flour and water until smooth, then gently heat, stirring, until thickened, and allow the mixture to cool. Once the panianky have cooled completely, use a piping bag to decorate it with traditional curls, wavy lines or dots.

Smachnoho — enjoy your meal!